Hermès Date Codes: Understanding a Bag’s Year of Production Through Its Stamp
A Discreet Signature, an Essential Detail
Every Hermès bag is a work of art, handcrafted by a single artisan who follows the house’s strictest standards of excellence. But beyond the beauty and craftsmanship lies a crucial detail for seasoned collectors: the Hermès date code, also called the Hermès stamp.
Stamped discreetly onto the leather, this code allows you to identify the exact year a Hermès bag was made. For vintage enthusiasts as well as luxury investors, understanding this system is essential.
What Is the Hermès Stamp?
Since the 1940s, Hermès has used a letter-based coding system to indicate the Hermès date codes—the official method for determining the year of production. The stamp typically consists of a single letter, sometimes framed by a geometric shape (circle or square), and often accompanied by an artisan’s ID or workshop code.
Unlike other luxury houses, Hermès does not issue serial numbers or official dating certificates. The stamp is therefore the primary reference for identifying the production year.
How to Read Hermès Date Codes
Hermès date codes fall into four major periods:
| PERIOD | FORMAT | EXAMPLE |
|---|---|---|
| 1945–1970 | Single letter (no shape) | A = 1945, Z = 1970 |
| 1971–1996 | Letter inside a circle (◯) | ◯A = 1971, ◯Z = 1996 |
| 1997–2014 | Letter inside a square (□) | □A = 1997, □R = 2014 |
| 2015–Today | Single letter (no frame) | T = 2015, Z = 2021 |
Where to Find the Stamp on a Hermès Bag
The location of the Hermès stamp varies depending on the model, manufacturing year, and artisan. It is often subtle and can be difficult to spot.
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Birkin: On the back of the strap or near a side seam
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Kelly: On the back of the strap or inside the lining
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Constance: Under the interior flap
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Rare or vintage models: Sometimes inside a pocket
Using a soft light and a magnifying glass can help locate the stamp.
Why Hermès Date Codes Are Important
1. Authentication
The Hermès date code is a key reference for verifying authenticity. If the stamp is inconsistent, missing, or placed incorrectly, the bag may be questionable.
2. Valuation and Resale
The year of manufacture directly affects the market value. Certain years—especially those linked to rare leathers, limited editions, or iconic artisans—can significantly increase the resale price.
3. Historical Tracing
The stamp acts as a historical marker. It places the bag within Hermès’ stylistic evolution: leather types used, colors, collections, and trends of the era.
The Hermès Stamp: A Balance of Discretion and Transparency
At Hermès, discretion is an art form. While other brands rely on visible numbering systems, Hermès favors an understated, almost invisible approach. This hidden system of Hermès date codes, known primarily by experts and collectors, is one of the many elements that contribute to the brand’s rarity and desirability.
Conclusion
The Hermès stamp is a true time capsule, allowing you to explore the history behind each bag. Whether you are a collector, an investor, or simply a lover of fine craftsmanship, learning to read Hermès date codes gives you access to the inner world of a house where luxury is found in the smallest details.
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